Transformational Reconstruction Cutting

Ossu guys! This week’s project is the Transformational Reconstruction cutting technique or TR cutting in short. This technique is developed by Shingo Sato, it is a technique where draping, cutting, and volume insertion are implemented to create a shaped garment. This technique can make 3-dimentional garment from 2-dimentional surfaces and unexpected effects as they flow around the body.

For this project I made 4 samples of muslin fabric using the TR cutting techniques, the first one is dart manipulation technique. I start with a basic bodice, put it on the mannequin and draw the style lines that I want but also make sure that it touches the darts’ points. After getting the style lines that I like, I define the style lines again on a flat surface and cut it. This becomes the pattern and all I had to do is pin it on a muslin fabric, add allowance, then cut and sew.

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The second sample is made using the origami technique, similar with the first sample, it started with a basic pattern. For the second one I only make the back part, draw some style lines, define it, and cut. The difference with the first one is that between the panels I added 5 cm of paper to make pleats, I tape it together and it becomes the pattern. Next step is to pin it, add allowance, and sew.

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The third sample is the bamboo technique, for this sample I had to follow a tutorial video. In the end the video didn’t really show how to sew the pattern so I have to figure out how to sew it by myself.

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For the last sample I combine the armhole manipulation technique and gathering. Same with the first and second sample, it started with basic bodice with sleeves where I drew style lines, define it, cut, add allowance, and sew. I like this technique because it gives a 3D bulky effects to the style lines.

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Lastly is the final garment, because I really like the origami technique I decided to use it. I started with half dress, I drew the style lines that I want onto the muslin, define it and cut it. I added the paper for pleats and the pattern is done. For the neckline, I just have to draw style lines and I did the same to the shoulder but I spread the pattern out for about 1.5 cm to make it stand out.20160804_14233020160804_14235520160804_142337

From the pictures you can see that the origami didn’t really took shape on the from and back. Probably because my method of adding the paper is wrong, because the pleats’ length will be different per panel. I did not manage to finish this on time, you can see the armhole is not yet clean finished, but overall I really like the design actually even though it didn’t turn out as what I expected. So, that’s all for this week’s project. See you guys in my next post!

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